This post is about the fantastic experience of three years living in San Pedro de Atacama. The desert in which you will find this village is called the most arid desert in the world. The average height here is 2,500 meters and the local population does not total more than 6,000. Most of the people who work in tourism, hotels or restaurants are not Atacameños,as the locals are called. You are not allowed to dance there and there are no permits for bars or nightclubs. The parties, if any, are illegal and usually outside the village in the desert. Only on 18 September and 31 December there is permission for music and dance. Despite that, the magic and energy of San Pedro de Atacama is incredible.
This destination was first only visited by young backpackers. You could stay there for little money and enjoy the experiences and challenges. Nowadays you will also find a lot of luxury experiences and a number of luxury hotels. Tegenwoordig zijn er ook veel luxe excursies en een aantal luxe hotels. The center of the village is very small and you will find a lot of artisanal art of the plateau and local products,such as coca leaves. The coca tea is very helpful against altitude sickness. In the centre you will also find the companies that organise excursions, restaurants, pharmacies, 3 ATMs in the whole village and one post office.
How to get to San Pedro de Atacama
The flights from Santiago land at Calama airport and then a transfer to San Pedro de Atacama is just 102 km. I recommend you to take a paracetamol half an hour before departure (of the transfer) and drink plenty of water because the route passes a height of more than 3,400 m. As a result, you may experience headaches or “puna”, as they say here.
The temperature
During the day the temperature is pleasant with sun, at night the temperature drops rapidly, especially in the winter months. It could easily be -6°C and 30°Cduring the day. It is best to dress in layers and wear sneakers or walking shoes. Furthermore, you need a cap or hat and a good sunscreen lotion against the bright sun. In February it rains a lot and it is windy, but with the climate change this varied in recent years.
Gastronomy
The gastronomy is good and varied, I mention here a few restaurants that I recommend
- Restaurant CKUNNA, this is my favorite. The map is very varied and very good. The great thing about this restaurant is that they have an inner garden with fireplace. Order a Pisco Sour (Peruvian style/Peruano) with delicious hot cakes and Pebre. Then try one of the following dishes: Pastel de Loco, Salmon grillado en costra de sésamo y arrope (arrope is a sweet local honey), Risotto de Mariscos (mixed fish) or Ceviche mixto (Peruvian fish dish)
- Restaurant ADOBE, a popular restaurant, often with local musicians. Try the Ceviche de Camarones (shrimp), Pizza de jamón serrano, Carpaccio de Salmón, Carne de res con Queso Roquefort y Higos (beef with roquefort and figs) or Chorrillana mixta (to share)
- Restaurant SOL INTI, here you eat cheaper and simpler. They have a delicious menu of the day and also the Lomo a lo Pobre and the giant sandwiches are very tasty, lots of calories.
- Restaurant LA CASONA, here you eat typical Chilean dishes such as empanadas, cazuela etc….
San Pedro de Atacama
You’ll explore the village in a few hours. You can visit the church that dates back to 1774, as well as the Museo Arqueológico R.P. Gustavo Le Paige. He was a Jesuit priest from Belgium who researched the Archaeology of the Andes and collected hundreds of indigenous objects. With the help of the Católica del Norte University he managed to collect these finds in the museum. These archaeological finds illustrate the evolution of the peoples that inhabited the Territorio Atacameño over the past eleven thousand years.
Lots of variety
If you like to travel, you’ll be surprised by the amount of landscapes and varied places you can find here. From sunsets over the giant sand dunes and volcanoes to natural hot springs. And then also float in salty lakes or lakes surrounded by snow and brightly colored flamingos. The average stay of travelers is four nights, where you visit the highest spots at the end of your stay. This way you get acclimatized without suffering from altitude sickness.
Valle de la Luna
The day you arrive you can enjoy the sunset in the Valle de la Luna. This is about 12 km from the village along the old road to Calama. Valle de la Luna is a depression and is surrounded by desert dunes and hills with sharp edges. This valley is part of the Reserva Nacional los Flamencos. You can go there by car or bike. There are excursions where they think of everything, tables with white tablecloth with delicacies as an aperitif and pisco sour. You will feel privileged between the dunes, with the sun and the delicious luxury dining. Wowww!
San Pedro, Laguna Cejar, Los Ojos Del Salar and Salar De Tebinquinche
In the morning you can walk through the village, visit the church and the museum. After lunch you can go to Laguna Cejar,about 20 km from the village. Here you can bathe in the saltwater and float, just like in the dead sea. Then it goes to Los Ojos Del Salar, two freshwater lakes that, from the sky, look like eyes. The sunset can then be admired at the Salar De Tebinquinche,with some cheese and a glass of wine. What a great day!
Tour Astronómico
If you are in San Pedro de Atacama with New Moon, be sure to do the Tour Astronómico. You will be fascinated by the spectacular universe not far from the village. Depending on the time of year the tour ends at around midnight. The excursion includes transport, access and catering.
Sandboarding in San Pedro de Atacama
If you are in San Pedro de Atacama with a full moon, you can take great pictures in the evening. For the extreme athletes among us there is also sandboarding,in the light of the full moon. You can do this in the Valle De La Muerte. Really cool and unique!
Los Géiseres Del Tatio
Early in the morning you will see the sunrise from Los Géiseres Del Tatio, located in a geothermal plain with the same name. You will find them 90 km north of San Pedro De Atacama at an altitude of about 4320 meters. As underground cold rivers come into contact with hot rocks, imposing steam clouds and hot water rise from the cracks in the earth’s crust. The geysers reach a height of about ten meters with a temperature of up to 85°C. Put on warm clothes because in the morning it is very cold. Breakfast with these views of one of nature’s most visited wonders is super impressive. Your egg, warmed up in a geyser is priceless.
Machuca and Llamas
Descending from the geysers you arrive in the small village of Machuca. Here you can taste Empanadas de Queso de Cabra (empanadas with goat cheese) or skewers with llama meat. Also, a walk through the village is nice to take pictures of the strikingly decorated llamas.
Termas De Puritama
After the Geysers and Machuca it is wonderful to bathe and relax in the waters of Las Termas De Puritama. In Kunza, the original language, means Puri means Water and Tama means Hot. Located 28 km from San Pedro De Atacama you will find them at the bottom of a crack in the mountains. The river that flows here has formed small natural baths with a temperature of 33°C. It is the ideal place to combine nature and relaxation.
Piedra Del Coyote
The photo on the Piedra Del Coyote can not be missed on your Facebook page and in your album. The tourists flock here for this photo and the sunset over the Valle De La Luna and the Licancabur and other volcanoes.
El Pukará de Quitor en La Aldea de Tulor
El Pukará de Quitor is a defensive fortress that dates back to the 12th century. The stone fort was built by the “atacameños” to defend themselves against surrounding peoples. It is an archaeological site and has the status of national monument. El Pukará de Quitor is 3 km from San Pedro de Atacama along the Río Grande and overlooks the valley. La Aldea de Tulor (Tulor village) are ruins found under the desert sand. They are considered one of the first settlements of the Atacameños. It has characteristic round constructions that can withstand earthquakes.
Las Caravanas Ancestrales de Coyo
If you want to experience a unique ethno-tourist experience then you should do the tour: Las Caravanas Ancestrales de Coyo. Sandra gives you a Llama and walking through her landscape she tells you about her history. She shows you the culture and invites you to lunchat her house , with typical Atacameña food. With Atacameñan music you can experience the local hospitality of her and her family. This is truly a unique and unforgettable experience.
Las Lagunas Altiplánicas
Another excursion, you should not miss out on, takes you to Las Lagunas Altiplánicas,62 km east of San Pedro de Atacama. This is a nature reserve at an altitude of 4100 meters (and higher) where the large flamingos can be found. The views are fantastic, with high mountains covered in snow in winter. Make sure you don’t run out of batteries or memory as you’ll encounter foxes, birds, llamas and flamingos on this excursion.
Tips for Excursions in San Pedro de Atacama
It’s definitely worth doing all these excursions with a guide who knows the area and can tell you all about it. Of course you have excursions in all price ranges but I recommend you to go mainly in small groups making it a truly unique experience.
Finally
San Pedro de Atacama is for me a separate country within Chile, where I have found incredible friends and an unforgettable group of people with whom I have worked. If you go there and are lucky enough to try the local brew called Aloha they say you will definitely come back or stay a little longer…..