Travels

A Tour of Mont Blanc

by Jan Bos 21/09/2020

written by Jan Bos

A Tour of Mont Blanc

We did a fantastic tour of Mont Blanc on the Ducati Multistrada 1200S. In this blog I will take you along this route. Some important information in advance:

We did the tour in September
The weather was still like in summer, 25 degrees and lots af sun
The tour is a little over 320 kilometers
Difficulty: Difficult
Lots of height difference and hairpin bends
Countries: Italy, Switzerland and France
No toll roads

Aosta

Day one we drove from our house to Aosta as the tour of Mont Blanc starts there. we spent the night in Bed & Breakfast Ad Podium in the old center of Aosta. This B & B is well maintained and is very convenient for exploring the old center. The center of Aosta is car-free and there are a number of archaeological sites to visit. You can buy an all-in-one ticket for the Criptoportico Forense, the Teatro Romano and the Chiesa Paleocristiana di San Lorenzo. If you don’t like culture, you can of course also just stroll through the streets. Delicious food is certainly part of it, we can recommend restaurant / bar Ad Forum.

Aosta-Grand Saint Bernard-Martigny

The first stage of the tour of Mont Blanc goes straight up from Aosta via the SS27 towards the Grand Saint Bernard pass. This is a fantastic route with impressive views. The roads were in very good condition, without many potholes or loose stones. So enjoy it. Make sure you don’t take the tunnel a little before reaching the top, because you will miss a well-deserved break. At the top of the pass you will find a reservoir lake and a restaurant as well as the statue of Saint Bernard. Here they obviously sell the St. Bernard plush toys 😉

After the break you almost immediately cross the border with Switzerland and the descent to Martigny begins. Here the road was less well maintained in the beginning. Moreover, any kind of protection is missing along the spectacular abyss. Here too, of course, an enormously impressive nature. Arriving in Martigny it was time for lunch, this time not in the center because we were looking forward to eat Peruvian Ceviche. We had a delicious meal at La Cordillère.

Martigny-Chamonix

After lunch we continued the tour of Mont Blanc via the Route de la Forclaz. After the border with France, this road turns into the D1506. This part of the route is much less rugged than the Grand Saint Bernard Pass. The difference in height is also less, although you will still encounter some hairpin bends. You now mainly drive through forests and a number of villages. After the last real climb you will be treated to a fantastic view of Mont Blanc, truly breathtaking.

It was our first time in Chamonix so we stayed for two nights. Hotel La Folie Douce is very nice with lovely rooms, a gym, a spa and swimming pool.

Chamonix

Chamonix is a wonderfully relaxed village, or maybe it was because of the COVID-19 and the time of year. A mask was required in the “busy” center, but since it was not busy many people walked around without a mask. You can indulge yourself in the center if you are an outdoors type because the majority of the shops are specialized in trekking, cycling, mountaineering and winter sports. Fortunately, there are also many restaurants and terraces, it is really like living as God in France.

Telepherique de l’Aiguille du Midi

To take a closer look at the breathtaking view, we went up the mountain L’AIGUILLE DU MIDI with the CABLE CAR OF L’AIGUILLE DU MIDI. This cable car takes you from just over 1000 meters to no less than 3840 meters. Do take a sweater or jacket with you because it is a lot cooler at this height. We were lucky because we could immediately walk through and get into the cable car. Once at the top, it is pure enjoyment, what an incredible view. The Mont Blanc towers another 1000 meters above you and you can see the mountaineers walking up the mountain.

If you are not afraid of heights you can also step into the glass box that they mounted on the outside, Step into the Void 😉

Chamonix-Beaufort-Bourg Saint Maurice

After enjoying this rest, the spa and a massage in Chamonix, it was time to continue our tour of Mont Blanc. If you want, you can also shorten the route here and take the Mont Blanc tunnel back to Aosta. Fortunately the weather was still nice so we could continue the tour. We arrived in Beaufort via beautiful and well-maintained roads (D218 and D70), meandering through a constantly changing landscape. It was lunchtime again, so we enjoyed the local cuisine. Just past Beaufort the road was closed so we continued via a small detour. The reservoir lakes of Saint Guérin and Roselend are nice places to take a break before the descent to Bourg Saint Maurice begins. Here we spent the night in hotel Autantic, which is a nice place just outside the village. The village itself is well worth a visit with its old and car-free center. A must for dinner is El Refuge, unfortunately they don’t have a website but they are easy to find.

Bourg Saint Maurice-Aosta

And then it is time for the last stage of the tour of Mont Blanc. This part starts with a considerable climb, but after that it is mainly descending through forests and a few winter sports villages. La Rosière in France and La Thuile in Italy are the best known. The route numbers are the D1090 and SS26. Halfway through you drive over a kind of plateau and you pass the Petit Saint Bernard pass. The roads on this stretch are again excellent and in Italy even recently paved.

After a last series of hairpin bends we arrived back in the Aosta valley. After this unforgettable adventure, we return home very satisfied.

But ……. we will definitely come back!

If you have already done this tour, let us know what you liked most!

CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO OF SEPTEMBER 16!

CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO OF SEPTEMBER 18!

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Venice in times of corona

by Jan Bos 25/07/2020

written by Jan Bos

Venice in times of Corona, what does it look like?

Last week (mid-July 2020) we went to Venice for a few days, some might wonder why right now? We have consciously chosen to visit Venice again while it is still quiet, due to the Corona measures. You read many stories in the newspapers and on social media about whether it is safe to go on vacation at all, so I would like to share our experiences.

The motorcycle ride to Venice

We set out in the morning from our home, near Como, on the Ducati. The weather was lovely, about 27 degrees and sunny. Our first stage took us via Lecco, Bergamo and Iseo to the Coco Beach Club in Lido di Lonate. We followed the beautiful winding back roads and then we enjoyed a quiet lunch on Lake Garda. The Coco Beach Club looked nice and the food was fine. It was not too crowdes here and the people kept enough distance. Once at the table or on your lounger, you can take off the mask again.

After lunch we drove on to Verona via the back roads. The first part was very beautiful, still along Lake Garda, but after that it was less fun with a lot of industry, roundabouts and 32 degrees. So we decided to take the Toll Road from Verona to Venice.

Arrival in Venice

You probably know that Venice is car and motorcycle free, so when we arrived we left the motorcycle in one of the parking garages. From there you can walk to the boarding point of the Vaporetto, the bus on the water, which takes you to the city in no time. A face mask is mandatory on the boat. Once you get out near your hotel, the search starts haha. The streets are very narrow and crisscross each other and the city is spread over different islands.

Due to the narrow streets, the GPS reception of the telephone is very poor and the hotels are not signposted on the corners of the streets. I therefore advise you to plan the route well in advance and to put the maps.me app on your phone. This app still displayed the position fairly accurately.

My opinion of Venice in times of Corona

Then my opinion about whether it is safe to go to Venice in times of Corona. In Venice it was already quite busy, not like normal of course, but because of the narrow streets it was sometimes quite difficult to keep enough distance. So it is up to you, how much patience do you have and / or do you put on a face mask? Of course you can also avoid the narrowest streets. It was absolutely no problem on the squares and the quays and we were able to enjoy all the beautiful sights without crowds. I personally would not pass up this opportunity because before you know it, the city will be flooded again with tourists from all over the world. In my opinion it is safe to visit Venice.

Tips for your visit

Tips for a visit to Venice: there are of course the San Marco Square (the museums were still closed), the nice shops, the many churches, the delicious food and the special people who walk around. A romantic trip in the Gondola should not be missed of course. De Gondelero told us there was about 20% of the normal number of tourists at the time. Be sure to also visit Burano and Murano, two islands near Venice that are famous for their glassware.

Soave, a gem along the route

After enjoying Venice for a few days, it was time to go home again. This time we chose to drive to Soave via the Toll Road. We had seen this town on the way to Venice from the Toll Road. Soave is a city with a city wall and a large military castle from the Middle Ages, the Castello di Soave. It is one of the best preserved and restored castles in Italy and well worth a visit. Furthermore, Soave is best known for its white wines and we had a really delicious meal at Enoteca il Drago. The only other tourists around were Belgians and Germans who were touring by bike.

After lunch and the castle visit we drove on home… .it was another unforgettable adventure!

You can find more travel stories here: TRAVELS

You can find more about motorcycling here: MOTORCYCLING

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Travels

San Pedro de Atacama in Chile

by Andrea Latorre Polloni 03/06/2020

written by Andrea Latorre Polloni

This post is about the fantastic experience of three years living in San Pedro de Atacama. The desert in which you will find this village is called the most arid desert in the world. The average height here is 2,500 meters and the local population does not total more than 6,000. Most of the people who work in tourism, hotels or restaurants are not Atacameños,as the locals are called. You are not allowed to dance there and there are no permits for bars or nightclubs. The parties, if any, are illegal and usually outside the village in the desert. Only on 18 September and 31 December there is permission for music and dance. Despite that, the magic and energy of San Pedro de Atacama is incredible.

This destination was first only visited by young backpackers. You could stay there for little money and enjoy the experiences and challenges. Nowadays you will also find a lot of luxury experiences and a number of luxury hotels. Tegenwoordig zijn er ook veel luxe excursies en een aantal luxe hotels. The center of the village is very small and you will find a lot of artisanal art of the plateau and local products,such as coca leaves. The coca tea is very helpful against altitude sickness. In the centre you will also find the companies that organise excursions, restaurants, pharmacies, 3 ATMs in the whole village and one post office.

How to get to San Pedro de Atacama

The flights from Santiago land at Calama airport and then a transfer to San Pedro de Atacama is just 102 km. I recommend you to take a paracetamol half an hour before departure (of the transfer) and drink plenty of water because the route passes a height of more than 3,400 m. As a result, you may experience headaches or “puna”, as they say here.

The temperature

During the day the temperature is pleasant with sun, at night the temperature drops rapidly, especially in the winter months. It could easily be -6°C and 30°Cduring the day. It is best to dress in layers and wear sneakers or walking shoes. Furthermore, you need a cap or hat and a good sunscreen lotion against the bright sun. In February it rains a lot and it is windy, but with the climate change this varied in recent years.

Gastronomy

The gastronomy is good and varied, I mention here a few restaurants that I recommend

Restaurant CKUNNA, this is my favorite. The map is very varied and very good. The great thing about this restaurant is that they have an inner garden with fireplace. Order a Pisco Sour (Peruvian style/Peruano) with delicious hot cakes and Pebre. Then try one of the following dishes: Pastel de Loco, Salmon grillado en costra de sésamo y arrope (arrope is a sweet local honey), Risotto de Mariscos (mixed fish) or Ceviche mixto (Peruvian fish dish)
Restaurant ADOBE, a popular restaurant, often with local musicians. Try the Ceviche de Camarones (shrimp), Pizza de jamón serrano, Carpaccio de Salmón, Carne de res con Queso Roquefort y Higos (beef with roquefort and figs) or Chorrillana mixta (to share)
Restaurant SOL INTI, here you eat cheaper and simpler. They have a delicious menu of the day and also the Lomo a lo Pobre and the giant sandwiches are very tasty, lots of calories.
Restaurant LA CASONA, here you eat typical Chilean dishes such as empanadas, cazuela etc….

San Pedro de Atacama

You’ll explore the village in a few hours. You can visit the church that dates back to 1774, as well as the Museo Arqueológico R.P. Gustavo Le Paige. He was a Jesuit priest from Belgium who researched the Archaeology of the Andes and collected hundreds of indigenous objects. With the help of the Católica del Norte University he managed to collect these finds in the museum. These archaeological finds illustrate the evolution of the peoples that inhabited the Territorio Atacameño over the past eleven thousand years.

Lots of variety

If you like to travel, you’ll be surprised by the amount of landscapes and varied places you can find here. From sunsets over the giant sand dunes and volcanoes to natural hot springs. And then also float in salty lakes or lakes surrounded by snow and brightly colored flamingos. The average stay of travelers is four nights, where you visit the highest spots at the end of your stay. This way you get acclimatized without suffering from altitude sickness.

Valle de la Luna

The day you arrive you can enjoy the sunset in the Valle de la Luna. This is about 12 km from the village along the old road to Calama. Valle de la Luna is a depression and is surrounded by desert dunes and hills with sharp edges. This valley is part of the Reserva Nacional los Flamencos. You can go there by car or bike. There are excursions where they think of everything, tables with white tablecloth with delicacies as an aperitif and pisco sour. You will feel privileged between the dunes, with the sun and the delicious luxury dining. Wowww!

San Pedro, Laguna Cejar, Los Ojos Del Salar and Salar De Tebinquinche

In the morning you can walk through the village, visit the church and the museum. After lunch you can go to Laguna Cejar,about 20 km from the village. Here you can bathe in the saltwater and float, just like in the dead sea. Then it goes to Los Ojos Del Salar, two freshwater lakes that, from the sky, look like eyes. The sunset can then be admired at the Salar De Tebinquinche,with some cheese and a glass of wine. What a great day!

Tour Astronómico

If you are in San Pedro de Atacama with New Moon, be sure to do the Tour Astronómico. You will be fascinated by the spectacular universe not far from the village. Depending on the time of year the tour ends at around midnight. The excursion includes transport, access and catering.

Sandboarding in San Pedro de Atacama

If you are in San Pedro de Atacama with a full moon, you can take great pictures in the evening. For the extreme athletes among us there is also sandboarding,in the light of the full moon. You can do this in the Valle De La Muerte. Really cool and unique!

Los Géiseres Del Tatio

Early in the morning you will see the sunrise from Los Géiseres Del Tatio, located in a geothermal plain with the same name. You will find them 90 km north of San Pedro De Atacama at an altitude of about 4320 meters. As underground cold rivers come into contact with hot rocks, imposing steam clouds and hot water rise from the cracks in the earth’s crust. The geysers reach a height of about ten meters with a temperature of up to 85°C. Put on warm clothes because in the morning it is very cold. Breakfast with these views of one of nature’s most visited wonders is super impressive. Your egg, warmed up in a geyser is priceless.

Machuca and Llamas

Descending from the geysers you arrive in the small village of Machuca. Here you can taste Empanadas de Queso de Cabra (empanadas with goat cheese) or skewers with llama meat. Also, a walk through the village is nice to take pictures of the strikingly decorated llamas.

Termas De Puritama

After the Geysers and Machuca it is wonderful to bathe and relax in the waters of Las Termas De Puritama. In Kunza, the original language, means Puri means Water and Tama means Hot. Located 28 km from San Pedro De Atacama you will find them at the bottom of a crack in the mountains. The river that flows here has formed small natural baths with a temperature of 33°C. It is the ideal place to combine nature and relaxation.

Piedra Del Coyote

The photo on the Piedra Del Coyote can not be missed on your Facebook page and in your album. The tourists flock here for this photo and the sunset over the Valle De La Luna and the Licancabur and other volcanoes.

El Pukará de Quitor en La Aldea de Tulor

El Pukará de Quitor is a defensive fortress that dates back to the 12th century. The stone fort was built by the “atacameños” to defend themselves against surrounding peoples. It is an archaeological site and has the status of national monument. El Pukará de Quitor is 3 km from San Pedro de Atacama along the Río Grande and overlooks the valley. La Aldea de Tulor (Tulor village) are ruins found under the desert sand. They are considered one of the first settlements of the Atacameños. It has characteristic round constructions that can withstand earthquakes.

Las Caravanas Ancestrales de Coyo

If you want to experience a unique ethno-tourist experience then you should do the tour: Las Caravanas Ancestrales de Coyo. Sandra gives you a Llama and walking through her landscape she tells you about her history. She shows you the culture and invites you to lunchat her house , with typical Atacameña food. With Atacameñan music you can experience the local hospitality of her and her family. This is truly a unique and unforgettable experience.

Las Lagunas Altiplánicas

Another excursion, you should not miss out on, takes you to Las Lagunas Altiplánicas,62 km east of San Pedro de Atacama. This is a nature reserve at an altitude of 4100 meters (and higher) where the large flamingos can be found. The views are fantastic, with high mountains covered in snow in winter. Make sure you don’t run out of batteries or memory as you’ll encounter foxes, birds, llamas and flamingos on this excursion.

Tips for Excursions in San Pedro de Atacama

It’s definitely worth doing all these excursions with a guide who knows the area and can tell you all about it. Of course you have excursions in all price ranges but I recommend you to go mainly in small groups making it a truly unique experience.

Finally

San Pedro de Atacama is for me a separate country within Chile, where I have found incredible friends and an unforgettable group of people with whom I have worked. If you go there and are lucky enough to try the local brew called Aloha they say you will definitely come back or stay a little longer…..

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statue and people on plaza de independencia Quito

Travels

Quito in just 4 days

by Jan Bos 16/05/2020

written by Jan Bos

Quito in Ecuador is a colonial, architecturally beautiful, well organized city in an incredibly beautiful natural setting.

San Francisco de Quito was founded by Diego de Almagro on August 28, 1534. The city is built on the ruins of the most important Inca city in the region, one of the oldest in South America. In 1978, the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Quito has about 2 million inhabitants and is literally surrounded by mountains. The city is located at an altitude of 2700 meters, which means that it has a micro-climate which makes it much cooler than the rest of the country.

In a program of 4 days I recommend you to see and do the following:

CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF SAN FRANCISCO

Located in the middle of the historic centre, also called “the Escoriaal of the New World”, it is the most impressive monument in Quito. In the church you will find the famous “Virgen de Quito” (Virgin of Quito). Admission to the church is free and you pay a small amount for entry to the monastery.

CALLE LA RONDA

This is the main street in the historical center, the street is connected to “la Plaza (square) Santo Domingo”. In this street you will find the local craft shops, clothing, art galleries and also cafes and restaurants with typical local cuisine. On weekends it is pleasantly busy and a must-see for local food.

TELEFÉRICO DE QUITO

i.e. the cable car van Quito, which is the highest in South America. You start at 2950 m. altitude and you get off at 4050 m. on top of the Cruz Loma. It’s the perfect place for a walk. Or a trip through the Andes mountains to one of the peaks of the Pichincha volcano, the Rucu Pichincha. The tour is cool, almost in a straight line and almost flat. besides that, it offers one of the most beautiful views over the city of Quito.

If the weather cooperates, you can see some well-known peaks of the Andes. For example, the Cayambe,the Antisana,the Cotopaxi,the Pasochoa,the Rumiñahui and the list goes on.

BASÍLICA DEL VOTO NACIONAL

The design resembles some European cathedrals. It is shaped like a Gothic cross and has one of the tallest towers, 115 meters high. You will find it in the San Juan district, in the middle of the historic center.
The first stone was laid in 1890, six years after the Congreso Nacional had authorized its construction. The design is by the architect Emilio Tarlier and the European influence is obvious. The front resembles the Cathedraal of Burgos (Spain) and Notre Dame (France). The big difference is in the color of the stones.

It is incredibly impressive and beautiful, you should really take the time to see this gigantic and beautiful cathedral.

PLAZA GRANDE OR PLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA

Plaza Grande (the main square) also called Plaza de la Independencia (square of independence), this is the main square of Quito. Here you will find the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), the Cathedral de Quito with its baroque architecture and Gothic interior. You will also find here the town hall, a cultural centre and a hotel. It is one of the most important places for the government and a section is only accessible to pedestrians. You will also find people in their original costumes who sell alpaca wool scarves made by them.

PALACIO DE GOBIERNO CARONDELET

We noticed how organized they are here and how important it is to them, to share their heritage. We were able get the entrance with only our passports. Within half an hour we were at the entrance and, after the security check, we went inside. Admission is completely free. Unfortunately, the president wasn’t there that day. The guide told us about the history of the building, how it functions and showed us the halls. At the end of the tour we also got a picture they had taken earlier in the garden.

The tour takes 45 minutes and the entrance goes in groups of 15, every 15 minutes. You do need a passport to get in. The ticket you can get at an information booth nearby. The change of the honor guard is at 9:00, usually with the president present. The walls are decorated with works by artists from Ecuador and you will also find some famous Ecuadorean roses here.

BIKE RIDE IN THE ANDES

Several companies organize bike rides through the mountains, for all levels. A cool experience! You’ll be brought up the mountain and then you’ll descend with a mountain bike, we went with Arie’s Bike Company. In addition to the bikes, Arie also provided coffee, water, fruit and a delicious sandwich for lunch. The views are fantastic. We visited a place in the tropical rainforest where you can photograph all types of hummingbirds up close. The tour ends with a visit to the Intiñan museum.

INTIÑAN MUSEUM

Intiñan Museum, which means the way of the sun (San Antonio de Pichincha) and “La Mitad de Mundo” Museum. You should not miss out on these, here they show you how the people used to live and what their habits were. They show you how the magnetic field at the equator, at 00°00 ́00″ latitude, behaves. The visit takes about an hour. As you could read above, we visited this museum at the end of our bike ride, a great combination.

Have fun in Quito and leave a comment if you want to share your experiences!!

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